![]() Not compatible on systems with an existing amplifier or pre-amplifier. Compatible With All Standard And Digital Cable TV Services, OTA Antenna Reception.Reduces snow and prevents image pixelation with digital cable, boosts antenna (OTA) signals for distribution to multiple TVs. Four port amplifier with a passive return path provides an increase of +7.5 db per port.If you know everything there’s to know about antennas and transmission lines and think it was done right, don’t argue here and do what you can’t help doing. You could attach a piece of wet spaghetti and get the same reception. As such, your antenna will consist of a wire laying horizontally in places and isn’t tuned. Since it isn’t matched anymore, that piece of coax likely becomes the equivalent to a piece of wire - that shield does nothing anymore. It will certainly not behave for the 100MHz the antenna is tuned for. It is called an impedance bump and actually will act like a transformer for certain frequencies. It isn’t something you can easily measure without the proper setup but the effects are quickly seen because the system will not work right.Ī splice causes that impedance to change at that point. The material between the center and the shield creates a characteristic impedance. You can’t splice coax with tape and/or just soldering the center connector. You should take your disagree back, seriously. I don’t know why you’re ( ) disagreeing with him because clearly you don’t know anything about coax cable or antennas. ![]() ![]() Replacing the entire line with a new cable would work is absolutely 100 percent correct. They should work fine for you as the run is fairly short, but there may be a different type of connector typically used for car antennas, as the cable may be 50 ohm instead. Or two of the same type with a barrell adapter.į connectors are for 75 ohm cable. Radio Shack sells these, and this is fairly easy to do, if you’re up to doing it yourself. I’ve done this inexpensively w/the rf connectors used for tv antennas, “F connectors” I think they call them. If so, then the splice is the problem.Ĭonnecting one piece of coax to another is usually done by putting a connector on each of the wires, then connecting the connectors together. And that there is continuity on both the signal and shields from one end to the other. I’m assuming you’ve verified the antenna is going up and down as it is supposed to. Could I use a coaxial cable splice connection, fuse them together using butt connectors, hard-wire the two ends (in the picture) or just purchase an antenna amplifier booster to fix the radio reception problem? I was also considering this, an inline AM/FM antenna noise filter for automobiles should fix the problem: /itm/Car-Fm-Am-Radio-Stero-Inline-Antenna-Noise-Sound-Filter-/220807733152?pt=US_Wire_Harnesses&hash=item33692a9fa0Īnother thing, the radio reception in my SUV’s (Toyota Highlander) is suberb and no signal problems, as well.īy auto-antenna, I assume this is the kind that goes up and down by itself, when you turn the key to “on”. In the attached photo shows both wiring ends from the aftermarket antenna’s cable to the car’s existing antenna cable, cut off & was originally sealed with electrical tape. However once the engine is running the AM band buzzes, has hissing & pops with a static barely, making it impossible to hear anything on the radio including local stations in the San Francisco Bay Area. When the car is stopped, no engine running and on Accesory mode, I was able to barely hear AM broadcasts. I took this radio out of my previous vehicle (Toyota Camry) & reinstalled it in the Lincoln Town Car. I purchased a new automatic antenna for my 1986 Lincoln Town Car & had it installed at the car stereo shop to replace the non-functional stock antenna since the car was new, the FM stations had some static and I couldn’t receive any AM stations at all the radio in my Town Car is an aftermarket Kenwood CD Head Unit.
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